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Common Name:Green Anole

Green Anole (Anolis carolinensis)

Latin name: Anolis carolinensis

Native to: Southeastern United States from Florida to eastern Texas and north to Oklahoma and North Carolina. Green Anoles can also be found in the Bahamas, Cuba, and Mexico.

Size: Typically up to 9 inches, though some may reach as large as 12 inches.

Life span: If properly kept, green anoles can live 7 to 10 years though the average life span is only three to five years because many die due to improper care and neglect.

General appearance: The green anole is a small green lizard with a pointed nose, and a tail that is generally twice as long as its body. They change color to brown when cold or stressed. Both sexes have red throat fans called dewlaps though the male's is bigger and brighter. Green anoles have long skinny toes with ridges on bottom for gripping. Juveniles have a bluish-white stripe down their back. Females keep this stripe in adulthood, though males will lose this stripe.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A pair of green anoles should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 20 gallons. Taller enclosures are preferred with plants or other types of ornaments to allow the anoles space to climb. Males can not be housed together as they are territorial and will often fight over the limited amount of enclosure space. Males can be kept with one or more females and any number of females can be kept together. Obviously, larger enclosures are needed for larger groups of kept anoles. Because anoles have the ability to climb sheer surfaces, a secure top should always be used with the enclosures.

Temperature: Green anoles should be kept with ambient day temperatures of 75° to 80° F with basking temperatures of 85° to 90° F. Temperatures of 65° to 75° F are suitable at night.

Heat/Light: Green anoles require ultraviolet (UV) light which can be provided with fluorescent UVB bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs that can also provide heat for the basking spot. Basking temperatures can also be achieved using incandescent bulbs, infrared bulbs, or ceramic emitters if using fluorescent bulbs for UV light. Under the tank (UTH) heaters can be used to raise the ambient temperature of the enclosure if needed. Heat rocks, heat caves, and other similar items should never be used under any circumstance.

Substrate: Bark mulch, orchid bark, ground coconut fiber, and peat moss can all be used to help create a naturalistic enclosure. Other substrates such as newspaper, paper towels, or indoor/outdoor carpeting can also be used. If using naturalistic substrates be sure to clean it often to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Environment: Green anoles come from a tropical to semi-tropical region and require a humidity level of 60% to 70%. To achieve this part of the screen top can be blocked off to help prevent evaporation. The enclosure should also be misted twice daily to help maintain humidity levels as well.

Diet: Green anoles are insectivorous. They will eat crickets, mealworms, wax worms, cockroaches, fruit flies and other small insects. All feeder insects should be properly gut-loaded prior to feeding. Offering a variety of different insects will offer the best diet for the anole since different insects have different nutritional values. Care should be used to not overfeed anoles and they should only be offered only as much food as they can eat in one sitting.

Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. Anoles generally do not drink from standing water which is why it is vitally important that the enclosure be misted daily. Anoles will drink from the water drops that form on the cage ornaments. An aquarium bubbler can also be used in the water dish to simulate moving water to encourage the anole to drink from the bowl.

Common Name:Green Iguana

Latin name: Iguana iguana

Green Iguana (Iguana iguana)

Native to: Central and South America. Imported iguanas are generally from Columbia, El Salvador, Honduras, Peru, Mexico, and Surinam.

Size: Adult iguanas range in size from four to six feet in length.

Life span: If properly cared for, iguanas should live more than 20 years in captivity.

Special Note: While many people consider the green iguana a beginners pet, nothing is further from the truth. Iguanas require specialized care and management that is generally beyond the knowledge of most novices. It is because of this lack of knowledge that a majority of juvenile iguanas die prematurely. Iguana owners need to be aware of the specialized diet and housing requirements that the green iguana requires. If looking for a great beginner reptile or amphibian pet, consider a corn snake, milk snake, ball python, leopard gecko, bearded dragon, or pac man frog. All of these species are fun and a great way to begin in the hobby!

General appearance: Iguanas are what most people think of when they think "lizard." They have five toes on each foot. They posses a fleshy flap of skin under the chin called a dewlap. All iguanas have spines that run the length of the back. Contrary to popular belief, not all iguanas are green. Most juveniles are bright green, but as they age and grow they can range in color from a dull green to brown or even orange with striped tails.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: The enclosure for an adult iguana is very large. The enclosure should be at least six feet tall, about 1½ to twice the length of the iguana, and 2/3 to one full length of the iguana wide. For a six foot adult iguana, this is an enclosure that is 9 to 12 feet long, four to six feet wide, and at least six feet tall. Sufficient branches and shelves for climbing and lounging should also be provided. To give you perspective on the size of the enclosure, most small bedrooms are only 9 feet wide. This is why many owners dedicate a separate room as their "iguana room." Some owners also allow their iguanas to "free range" throughout the house. If you allow your iguana to live in its own room or free range, be sure the keep the area the iguana will frequent free of small objects that the iguana may accidentally ingest.

Temperature: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and need to be kept warm. Daytime temperatures should be 80° - 85° F with a basking spot of 90° - 95° F. There should be a range of temperatures offered to the iguana to allow it to thermoregulate itself. Nighttime temperatures should be 75° - 80° F. All temperatures should be verified with a thermometer regularly.

Heat/Light: Ultraviolet lighting providing UVA and UVB is required for proper calcium metabolism and skeletal development. Without the proper lighting your will become sick and die a very painful death. Proper lighting can be provided utilizing fluorescent tubes specially made for use by reptiles as well as mercury vapor bulbs that also provide some heat as well. Additional heat can be provided utilizing infrared ceramic emitters and incandescent basking bulbs. Hot rocks should never be used under any circumstance as they can severely burn your iguana.

Substrate: Iguanas will often tongue lick their surroundings. Because of this most particulate substrate (wood shavings, mulch, sand, or powder types) are not appropriate for most iguanas. Newspaper with non-toxic ink, butcher's paper, paper towels, indoor/outdoor carpeting, or artificial grass all make excellent choices. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting or artificial grass please be sure that there are no dangling strings that could tangle in your iguana's nails. It's also recommended that you have multiple pieces so that you may replace the soiled pieces with the clean set and then clean and disinfect the current set to use for the next cleaning.

Environment: Iguanas come from a tropical climate and require a humidity level of 65% to 75%. To achieve this may require several mistings a day. Many people opt to purchase an automatic misting system instead.

Diet: Iguanas are strict herbivores. Many older literatures will suggest feeding animal protein or even cat food. While some wild iguanas may ingest the occasional insect while eating leaves, it is not a significant portion on their diet. Iguanas that are fed too much animal protein will develop health problems and will die prematurely. A well balanced iguana diet will consist of about 40% to 45% greens (this includes, but is not limited to collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens (with flowers), escarole, and/or water cress), 40% to 45% other vegetables (this includes but is not limited to green beans, orange-fleshed squashes (butternut, Kabocha), snap or snow peas, parsnip, asparagus, okra, alfalfa (mature, not sprouts), onions, mushrooms, bell peppers, sweet potato, zucchini, yellow squash, and/or carrots), 10% or less of fruits (including, but not limited to Figs (raw or dried), blackberries, strawberries, raspberries, grapes, mango, melon (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon), papaya, banana, and/or apple), and less than 5% of other grains or commercial diets. Iguanas should never be rhubarb as it is toxic. Certain lettuces such as iceberg, romaine, and Boston butter lack sufficient nutrients and should only be fed occasionally. Acidic fruits (citrus, tomatoes, kiwi, pineapples, etc.) should also be only fed occasionally as well. Tofu can be occasionally offered as well for supplemental protein, though if too much is given it can lead to long term health issues. Wild plants and flowers are not recommended since they may be toxic to your iguana or may contain pesticides that could be toxic as well.

Maintenance: Cleanliness of the enclosure is essential. Waste products should be removed daily and the enclosure should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected regularly. A 5% bleach solution provides and excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the solution from the enclosure before placing the iguana back in. Fresh water should also be offered at all times. Always wash your hands after handling your iguana or any of your iguana's cage accessories.

Common Name:Leopard Gecko

Latin name: Eublepharis macularius

Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis macularius)

Native to: Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India

Size: 8 to 9 inches

Life span: Up to 18 years.

General appearance: Leopard geckos are yellow background color with adults having brown spots. They have obvious ears and possess eyelids. They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but do have claws on their toes.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A 20-gallon long aquarium will be adequate for 3 - 4 leopard geckos (only 1 male per enclosure — they are territorial). Rocks and logs will provide climbing areas and hiding places. Each leopard gecko must have its own hiding place. A lid is not necessary for the leopard geckos, since they do not climb glass, but will help keep crickets from escaping.

Temperature: Daytime high should be 82°F on one end of tank to 90°F under a spot light (choose wattage appropriate for providing the correct temperature. Night temperature should be 70° - 72° F. A small part of the substrate should be heated to 92°F using an under tank heat pad.

Heat/Light: No special UV lighting is needed as leopard geckos are nocturnal. A spotlight with the appropriate wattage bulb should be used for maintaining daytime heat/light.

Substrate: Anything from newspaper to sand may be used, but sand produces the most natural setup. Do NOT use cedar.

Environment: Dry, arid type climate. However, the area under the hide box should be kept moist to aid shedding and simulate the leopard gecko's natural burrows. A shallow water dish should be available at all times.

Diet: Crickets, mealworms, wax worms for adult leopard geckos. Hatchlings and juveniles should be fed small, appropriately sized crickets only. Adult leopard geckos will also eat an occasional pinkie mouse. Crickets should be dusted with calcium/D3 powder and vitamin supplements at every feeding for hatchlings and juveniles, and every other feeding for adults. Avoid wild caught insects!

Maintenance: Keep substrate free of waste products. Water dish must be washed and refilled daily to prevent bacterial growth. Change substrate regularly.

Common Name:Bearded Dragon

Latin name: Pogona vitticeps

Bearded Dragon (Pogona vitticeps)

Native to: Australia

Size: 6 - 24 inches

Life span: 5 - 15 years

General appearance: Medium sized lizard with a large triangular shaped bead, flattened body and a tail measuring half the length of the animal. Gray, brown or reddish brown color with small spiny scales covering the body with longer scales from the back of the head. When threatened a bearded dragon will puff out its throat resembling a spiky beard. There are many different designer phases of bearded dragons available that can produce different coloration

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Hatchling bearded dragons can be kept in a 20-gallon aquarium for a few months. Adult bearded dragons will need a 50-gallon aquarium or larger sized cage if more than one bearded dragon is housed. Branches and rocks are needed for climbing and basking. A screen top is needed for ventilation. Do not house two adult male bearded dragons together. You can also use a screened enclosure or custom built enclosure.

Temperature: Day: 80° - 85° F.
Night: 68° - 75° F
Basking: 95° - 105° F.

A heat lamp should be positioned over one end of the tank to produce the basking spot. Use thermometers or temperature gun to measure temperature.

Heat/Light: Incandescent bulbs, ceramic emitter, or heat panels can be used for the basking spot. Full spectrum lighting should be provided using one of the fluorescent bulbs made for reptiles that produce both UVA and UVB wavelengths. A mercury vapor bulb which provides heat and light may also be used. Twelve hours of daylight can be provided through the use of timers.

Substrate: Caribbean play sand is cheap, fairly easy to clean and creates a desert looking environment. However, use caution with hatchlings as some people feel it may cause impaction. Newspaper, Astroturf, paper towels, alfalfa pellets, and vitamin sand can also be used.

Environment: Desert habitat

Diet: Bearded dragons are omnivores. They need both animal and plant material in their diet. Crickets, locusts, cockroaches, mealworms, wax worms, silkworms, butter worms, red worms, earthworms, super worms with an occasional pinky will all be relished by your bearded dragon. You should use caution NOT to feed fireflys as they are toxic to Bearded Dragons. Vegetables that you can offer included greens (turnip, kale, romaine, dandelion, endive, escarole, mustard, and collard), green beans, squash, peas, sweet potato, chicory, watercress, red bell pepper, and cilantro. Fruits can be offered about 1-2 time a week (too much can cause diarrhea) such as blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, cantaloupe, mango, kiwi, and grapes. Commercially made food is also available for your bearded dragon. Fresh water should always be provided. Some bearded dragons like to be misted and lap up the water that way. Powdered vitamin/mineral supplement may be offered 1-2 times a week.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be offered daily. If using newsprint then clean as needed. Wood shavings should be spot cleaned as needed. Periodically, the enclosure should be disinfected. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to rinse the enclosure thoroughly after disinfecting. As always, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling your bearded dragon or any cage accessories.

Common Name:Schneider's Skink, Berber Skink, Dotted Skink

Latin name: Eumeces schneideri

Native to: Northwest Africa and Western Asia

Size: 16 inches

Life span: Up to 20 years

Schneider's Skink (Eumeces schneideri)

General appearance: The Schneider's skink is a long tubular skink with sandy coloration. Orange and yellow blotches and a solid yellow stripe running along the lizard are also present. The underbelly is a lighter sand color. The legs are short with clawed fingers adapted for digging and moving in sand.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A 20-gallon aquarium is the minimum size recommended for Schneider's skinks, though larger is often is recommended. A secure fitting lid should also be provided. There should be a suitable hiding area to make the lizard feel secure.

Temperature: Daytime temperatures should be maintained between 85° - 90° F with a basking spot of 95° - 105° F. The nighttime temperatures can drop down to 63° - 68° F.

Heat/Light: The use of an UVB bulb is necessary. A timer will assist you of an accurate light cycle of 12 - 14 hours. A basking light or ceramic emitter can be used to achieve a basking spot. Hot rocks are not recommended. At night, if heat is needed, a ceramic emitter or infrared night-light can be used.

Substrate: Tropical play sand is the most popular for the Schneider's skink. It is important to make sure that the substrate is at least three inches so the lizard can bury itself. Other suitable substrate is Carefresh® and Bed-a-Beast®.

Environment: In the wild, Schneider's skinks are found in dry, brushy areas as well as rocky steppes. There should be a cool spot, for thermoregulation, that is slightly dampened.

Diet: Schneider's skinks are considered omnivores, eating both plant and animal matter. They should be offered a variety of items including crickets, mealworms, earthworms, super worms, wax worms, and pink mice can be offered. Canned Monitor/Tegu food, and high quality low fat dog or cat food can be offered sparingly. Also plant matter should be offered twice to three times a week. Items that are suitable include kale, collard greens, legumes, carrots, squash, mashed fruits can be offered. Fresh water in a shallow dish should be offered daily.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the lizard back in the enclosure. Hand washing after handling the lizard or any cage furnishings is essential.

Common Name: Savannah Monitor

Latin name: Varanus exanthematicus

Savannah Monitor (Varanus exanthematicus)

Native to: The savannah monitor can be found in Sub-Saharan Africa, from Senegal to Sudan. Found north of the Congo river.und in Lives in tropical savannahs with seasonal drenching monsoons punctuating extended periods of parched weather.

Size: Savannah Monitors typically 2.5 to 4 feet, although rare 5 foot specimens are known.

Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.

General appearance: The savannah monitor is a stocky monitor with a blocky head, equipped with large, powerful limbs and large talons. The neck and tail are short for a monitor, but still long compared to many lizards. It is colored shades of brown and gray, typically with faint pale spots on its back, darker bands across its tail, and a white underside. Enlarged scales on its neck give it a pebbly appearance. A long, forked, purple tongue is used by the lizard to smell its environment.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Adult savannah monitors will need a set-up about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Plan on 4 feet by 8 feet of floor space. A design that works well uses a galvanized steel stock watering tank as the base with a plywood box of 8 feet long by 4 feet deep by 4 feet tall set on top. The stock tank holds the deep substrate, the box allows room to move around above the ground. Limit ventilation, especially on the hot side of the cage, to prevent turning your enclosure into a dehydration machine. Avoid using wire mesh of any kind, instead use glass or plexiglass to maintain adequate humidity. Young savannah monitors can be maintained in aquaria of appropriate sizes with a basking light set overhead and a sheet of plexiglass over the top to limit moisture loss.

Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75° and 80° F, with temperatures increasing to 90° to 100° F on the hot end with basking spots as large as the savannah monitor's body that reach 110° to 130° F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature.

Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by radiant light. Racks of flood lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as "pig blankets." The savannah monitor should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.

Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the savannah monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the savannah monitor's cage to a depth of two feet.

Environment: Be careful not to let your savannah monitor get too dry. Aim for humid-tropical air without making the cage wet. Savannah monitors become inactive in the dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity and health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and entertainment. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water. Live plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor.

Diet: Insects can make up the bulk of the savannah monitor's diet, supplemented by an occasional rodent. Lightly dust insects with a reptile vitamin and mineral powder. Large cockroaches, such as Madagascar hissing roaches, are especially relished. If you can collect snails and earthworms from pesticide free areas, add these to your savannah monitor's diet to round it out. A diet based largely on rodents may also be used, but it is unknown if this will cause health problems in the long term (wild savannah monitors eat almost entirely invertebrates). Feed whole food items whenever possible, avoid canned foods, cuts of meat, and cat or dog foods. Multiple small food items are preferable to one large meal. Feed daily. Savannah monitors are prone to obesity, feed juvenile monitors as much as they will eat but adjust the diet of adults as needed. Fasts, possibly lasting several months, may be useful for controlling weight.

Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.

Common Name: Colombian Tegu

Latin name: Tupinambis teguixin

Native to: Can be found throughout the Amazon Basin, especially Colombia

Size: Adults reach between 3 and 3½ feet in length and usually weighs about 8 pounds.

Life span: 5 - 8 years

General appearance: The common tegu has black and white stripes or spots with smooth scales and are similar in build to monitor species. Care should be taken to not confuse the Colombian black and white tegu with the Argentine black and white tegu (T. merianae). The Argentine tegu is larger and (reaching up to 4½ feet in length) and often have a more distinctive striped pattern. Tegus should not be confused as monitors, which are strictly and old world species. Tegus fill the same ecological niche as monitors and are an example of convergent evolution.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Adult Colombian tegus require a large enclosure. Generally the enclosure should be at least six feet in length and three feet in width. Colombian tegus are primarily terrestrial and do not necessarily require a large vertical space to climb. A good general rule of thumb for an enclosure should be twice the length of the animal in length and the length of the animal in width. Tegus enjoy soaking and the occasional swim, so a large water dish that they can soak themselves should be provided. A hide box should also be provided at all times.

Temperature: The Colombian tegu is a tropical species and should be kept warm with a fairly stable temperature gradient. Ambient temperature should be approximately 85° F with a basking spot of 100° to 110° F. Nighttime temperatures should be about 75° F.

Heat/Light: Both UVA and UVB light is recommended for Colombian tegus and can be provided with proper fluorescent bulbs. Heat can be provided with infrared heat bulbs, basking bulbs, or ceramic emitters. Newer Active UV bulbs now available can be used as well. These self-ballasted bulbs provide UVA and UVB light as well as heat.

Substrate: Colombian tegus like to burrow and will appreciate a substrate that they can burrow through. Care should be used when selecting a substrate because some substrates may cause impaction, especially in juveniles. Substrates like newspaper and indoor-outdoor carpeting are easy to clean but do not allow for burrowing. Substrate like peat moss and/or vermiculite holds humidity very well and provides for burrowing but can be very messy. Under no circumstances should cedar be used, since it has been proved to be toxic. Pine shavings are also not recommended.

Environment: Because Colombian tegus come from the tropics, the enclosure should be kept in a humid environment. Ambient humidity should be at least 40% and greater is usually preferred. It may be necessary to block a portion of a screen top to achieve this level of humidity.

Diet: Colombian tegus are natural scavengers as well as predators. As such they require a large and varied diet. Tegus can be fed rodents, small insects (such as crickets, mealworms, and others), canned high quality dog or cat food or even commercially prepared tegu diet. Ground turkey can also be used as well. Unlike monitors, tegus do require fruits as part of their diet. As much as half the diet for adult tegus can consist of fruits. Juvenile tegus generally will require more protein than adults. A good reptile multi-vitamin is also suggested to help keep the tegu healthy. As with all captive animals live or wild prey is not recommended due to the risk of injury and parasites to the tegu. When feeding tegus it is not recommended to use your hands because they will often associate your hands with food and can become hazardous to handle. When feeding use tongs or a tray to avoid this problem.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected weekly. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting it is recommended to have at least two sets for ease of cleaning. This will allow you to simply swap the clean carpeting for the soiled so you may clean it. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure and carpeting before placing the tegu back. The water dish should be emptied and cleaned daily as soaking tegus will often defecate in the water dish.

Common Name:Chinese Water Dragon, Australian Water Dragon

Latin name: Physignathus cocincinus, P. lesueurii

Native to: Indo-Australia and Southeast Asia

Size: Adult male water dragons can reach up to three feet in length. Females are slightly smaller.

Life span: Water dragons have lived to more than 18 years in captivity

General appearance: The Chinese water dragon (P. cocincinus) is generally green with vertical slanted stripes that run across the body and a white or yellow belly. These water dragons also possess colorful throats that can range in color from a pale yellow to peach or even pink. One of the most distinctive features are the well developed nuchal crests. The spikes are generally larger in males than in females. Males also possess prominent mid-sagittal crests.

The Australian water dragon (P. lesueurii) has the same body shape as its Chinese cousin. It is mostly brown in color. The head is lighter in color with a bar extending past the eye. In females the head is slightly darker and lacks the contrast that males possess. Males also typically have a larger head and crest. The crest runs from the base of the head down to the end of the tail. The body also is marked with bands of light colored bands, giving and overall general banded look to the water dragon. The throat and belly of the males is red while these areas are generally white or cream in females.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Young water dragons can start in a 10-gallon tank but will quickly outgrow this enclosure. Adult water dragons should be kept in an enclosure that is at least four feet by three feet. The larger the enclosure the better since too small of an enclosure can cause the water dragon to rub its snout until a bacterial infection occurs.

Temperature: Temperatures should be kept at 84° - 88° F during the day with a basking temperature of 90° - 95° F. Nighttime temperatures should be kept at 75° - 80° F.

Heat/Light: Water dragons require UVA and UVB light. This can be provided with various available fluorescent bulbs commercially available. The ambient temperature can be maintained with basking bulbs, infrared bulbs or ceramic emitters. There are now active UV bulbs now available on the market that also proved UVA/UVB light as well as heat.

Substrate: A variety of substrates can be used for water dragons. Sterilized potting soil can make for a very nice naturalistic enclosure but can be messy. Newspaper, paper towels, and indoor-outdoor carpeting can also be used and are easier to maintain. Cedar and pine wood shavings should be avoided due to toxicity concerns.

Environment: As their name suggests, water dragons should have ready access to a pool of water for soaking and swimming. These lizards also require high humidity and the enclosure should be maintained at 60% - 80% relative humidity. This will often require regular misting of the enclosure. Planted non-toxic plants in the enclosure can also help maintain the humidity levels required.

Diet: Water dragons are omnivorous. They can be fed crickets, mealworms, super worms, earthworms, mice, comets (common feeder goldfish), and day-old chicks. In addition to this water dragons also require some greens and can be offered shredded romaine lettuce as well as other various greens such as mustard, dandelion and collard. Other vegetables such as yellow squash, sweet potato, parsnips, green beans and carrots can also be given. Some fruit such as strawberry, raspberry, blueberry banana, and various melons can also be provided.

Maintenance: The water in the enclosure should be changed daily unless a filtration system is used. If using filtration, a weekly water change should be performed. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected weekly. If using indoor/outdoor carpeting it is recommended to have at least two sets for ease of cleaning. This will allow you to simply swap the clean carpeting for the soiled so you may clean it. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure and carpeting before placing the water dragon back.

Common Name:Tokay Gecko

Tokay Gecko (Gekko gekko)

Latin name: Gekko gekko

Native to: Northeastern India, Bangladesh, Burma, Thailand, Indochina, southern China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Philippines, Sulu Archipelago and eastern Indoaustralasian archipelago. Tokay geckos have also been introduced into other areas including southern Florida.

Size: Adult tokay geckos average 10 to 14 inches in length. Hatchlings are usually four inches in length.

Life span: Tokay geckos will live 7 to 10 years.

General appearance: The tokay gecko is an aggressive gecko and has an attractive gray to blue body with orange to red spots and flecks. The whole body is covered with small angular scales with tubercular scales on the back of the gecko. The toes have large undivided adhesive pads which they can climb almost any surface. The male is distinguished from the female by an angular row of 10 to 24 pre-anal pores. Tokay geckos have voices that bark, grunt and trill.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Tokay geckos can be kept singly in a 10 to 20-gallon aquarium. You can house them in groups, however it is inadvisable to keep males together as they will fight. You can keep up to six tokay geckos in a 55-gallon aquarium. When possible choose high tanks over long tanks. Screened enclosures are not a good choice because of the geckos' delicate foot structure.

Temperature: Tokay geckos should be kept in a relative cage temperature of 85° to 90° F during the day with a 15° F drop during the night.

Heat/Light: A heat lamp may be used. As Tokay geckos are nocturnal, ultra-violet lighting is not necessary but can be used for aesthetic purposes and plant maintenance. Under tank heaters are rarely used by this gecko. A photo period of 10 hours light and 14 hours darkness is adequate.

Substrate: Potting soil and sand mixture, orchid bark, coconut fiber or fir bark can all be used as substrate.

Environment: Tokay geckos are from the tropical rain forest, but the can be found at home within human habitations as well. Since they are a rain forest species a relative humidity should be around 70% to 90% and should not drop below 50%. The substrate listed above will help in keeping the humidity in the desired range. Strong plants such as croton and wax flower are recommended. The back wall of the terrarium can also be lined with bark. Split branches, cork tubes and grape wood branches can also be used.

Diet: Tokay geckos are not squeamish and will eat a wide variety of insects. Crickets should be a staple and will be relished. Wax worms, wax moths, super worms, locusts and even pinky mice will be eaten. Food should be offered every other day. Dusting of insects with a multipurpose reptile vitamin/mineral powder should be done at least every third feeding.

Maintenance: Spot cleaning of the terrarium should be done as needed. A complete breakdown of the terrarium and replacement of the substrate should be done every three to four months. Humidity can be maintained by daily misting once in the morning and once in the evening. Tokay geckos stress with handling and should be considered a "hands off" gecko. If captured they will bit strongly. As these bites can be quite painful, it is best to wear strong gloves when handling is necessary. As the vast majority of Tokay geckos are imported and very few are captive bred, wild caught animals may be loaded with parasites. It is recommended to have a veterinarian check for these parasites with a fecal flotation exam.

Common Name: Blue-Tongue Skink

Blue-Tongue Skink (Tiliqua spp.)

Latin name: Tiliqua spp.

Native to: Australia, New Guinea and Tasmania

Size: Can be anywhere from seven to 24 inches in length depending on specific species of blue-tongue skink. Please see below for more information.

Life span: Most blue-tongue skinks can reach ages of 20 years or more in captivity

General appearance: All blue-tongue skinks tend to have a heavy build with small legs and toes. They also exhibit the typical triangular blunt head of most skins. All species get their name from a bright blue tongue in their pink or red mouths. Specific differences among various species are found below:

T. adelaidensis - Pygmy Blue-Tongue Skink: Typically found in Southern Australia and Tasmania. This species will generally only reach lengths of seven inches or less. They are a highly endangers species with an estimated wild population of only 5,500. They vary in color from light gray to very dark brown with irregular black spots along the back.

T. gigas - New Guinea Blue Tongue Skink: This species is generally gray or gray-brown with narrow dark bands of irregular shape across the back. T. gigas is one of the largest species of blue-tongue skink and can reach lengths of 24 inches. They can be found in Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, Jobi, Admiralty Islands, New Britain and the Bismarck Archipelago. This species is omnivorous and will feed on wild flowers, fruit, small animals and insects.

T. gerrardii - Australian Pink Tongued Skink: Typically found in New South Wales, Eastern Australia and is generally 15 to 18 inches in length. This species generally nocturnal in the warmer weather and becomes diurnal in colder weather. Their natural environment is generally wetter than most other species. It feeds almost exclusively on snails and slugs. The classification of this species is still being debated. The WNYHS uses ISIS as a standard for all scientific names and it is still classified in Tiliqua at the time of this writing.

T. mustifaciata - Central Blue-Tongued Skink: Can be found in both desert and tropical environments in North Territory, Queensland, South Australia and West Australia. They will grow to 15 to 18 inches in length and will feed on wild flowers, small animals and insects.

T. nigrolutea - Blotched Blue Tongued Skink or Black and Yellow Blue-Tongued Skink: Generally found in Southern Australia and Tasmania. This species is typically brown-black with a yellow colored irregular spotted or striped pattern. One of the larger species it can reach sizes of 24 inches in length. Like most skinks this species is omnivorous. This species is often crosses with T. scincoides in the pet trade and the offspring are not sterile and still viable for breeding.

T. occipitalis - Western Blue Tongued Skink: This is a short tailed, compact species reaching lengths of about 20 inches. They are generally reddish brown with lighter tan cross banding and a tan belly. This species is also omnivorous and likes various berries, spiders and other insects and arthropods. The Western Blue Tongued Skink can generally be found in New South Wales, North Territory, Queensland, South Australia, Victoria and West Australia.

T. rugosa - Shingleback Skink: Generally found in New South Wales, Queensland, South Australia, Victoria and West Australia. They can reach sizes of up to 15 inches in length. They get their name from their large keeled scales. They are generally brown-black in color with lighter bands across the back. Recent research also suggests that this species is monogamous.

T. scincoides scincoides - Common or Eastern Blue-Tongued Skink: Can often be found in semi-desert to agricultural areas of most of eastern Australia and the upper third of the Northern Territory, far northern Western Australia, and southeastern South Australia. They can reach sizes of up to 24 inches in length but generally reach lengths of only 18 inches. This species is generally tan with darker uniform or semi-broken bands or blotches across the body that becomes more blotched on the tail. Some specimens have a dark stripe from the back of the head to the eye. Legs are usually gray and unmarked. The most distinguishable feature, and the easiest way to separate this subspecies from the Northern, or Iranian Jaya localities, is the presence of thin dark stripes lengthwise along the body. This species is also omnivorous feeding on small animals, insects and plant material. This is one of the hardier and popular species found in the pet trade.

T. s. intermedia - Northern Blue Tongued Skink: This subspecies prefers tropical or savannah woodlands of Northern Australia. Often considered the largest of the blue-tongued skinks it can reach lengths of 24 to 27 inches. It generally as uniform vertical bands which are usually chestnut colored, with orange shaded off-centered markings on the sides. As with the Eastern, the legs are gray and unmarked. Because of their gentler demeanor this subspecies generally makes for the best choice if you want a handleable pet.

Common Name: Bibron's Gecko

Latin name: Pachydactylus bibroni

Native to: Southern Africa, Angola, and southern Tanzania

Size: Bibron's Geckos generally reach 6 inches (15 cm) in length, though they can reach sizes of 8 to 9 inches (20-22 cm).

General appearance: Bibron's geckos generally reach 6 inches (15 cm) in length, though they can reach sizes of 8 to 9 inches (20-22 cm).

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Bibron's geckos do well in a 20-gallon or larger aquarium. A screen top for the enclosure will help with air circulation.

Temperature: Bibron's geckos are best kept at a temperature of 75° to 85° F (24° to 29° C) during the day, with a 90° to 95° F (32° to 35° C) basking spot. Nighttime temperatures should be 65° to 75° F (18° to 24° C).

Heat/Light: Both UVA and UVB light is recommended for Bibron's geckos and can be provided with proper fluorescent bulbs. Heat can be provided with infrared heat bulbs, basking bulbs, or ceramic emitters. Newer Active UV bulbs now available can be used as well. These self-ballasted bulbs provide UVA and UVB light as well as heat.

Substrate: Various substrates can be used including crushed coconut shell and orchid bark. Both of these will help to maintain a higher humidity level for the Bibron's gecko. Sphagnum moss can also be used to help raise the humidity.

Environment: Because the Bibron's gecko is an arboreal species, live potted or artificial plants can be used to provide a variety of climbing surfaces to climb on. Live plants can also help maintain the 65% humidity level that these geckos prefer.

Diet: As with most geckos, Bibron's geckos are insectivorous. They will eat a variety of insects including crickets, mealworms, super worms, and wax worms. When feeding your gecko insects it is important to gut load them before feeding to the gecko. Regular vitamin supplements applied to the prey can also prove beneficial in moderation as well.

Maintenance: Fresh water should be provided daily. The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected regularly. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the before placing the gecko back. Regular misting may also be required in order to maintain humidity levels. After handling your gecko or cage accessories it is always important to thoroughly wash your hands.

Common Name:Uromastyx, Spiny Tail Lizard

Latin name: Uromastyx spp.

Mali Uromastyx (Uromastyx maliensis)

Native to: Northern Africa to the Middle East, depending upon specific species of Uromastyx. See below for specific details.

Size: From 14 inches to 30 inches depending upon specific species of spiny tail lizard. See below for specific details.

Life span: Theorized to be 35 years in captivity

General appearance: All Uromastyx have a stocky build and a well-armored tail which gives it its common name. All species of Uromastyx also have salt glands around their nostrils and it is not uncommon to see salt crystals build up around the nostril. There several species in the Uromastyx genus, but only the following species are commonly imported and seen in the pet trade however, so we will only cover these species below.

Uromastyx acanthinurus: Can reach lengths of 16 inches. Colors can range from green to yellow to even some bright orange with all colors in between. This species can be found in northern Africa, including Morocco, Libya, Niger and Sudan.

Uromastyx aegyptius: The largest member of the genus, Uromastyx aegyptius can reach lengths of 30 inches and weigh several pounds. Coloration is highly variable but is usually dark brown to light brown or tan. As the species name suggests, this species can be found in Egypt as well as parts of the Middle East, including the Arabian Peninsula, Iran, Iraq, and parts of Israel.

Uromastyx benti: This species shows some sexual dimorphism. Males tend to have a bluish body with white spots while females are usually light tan with reddish tails. Like most species of Uromastyx, this species rarely exceeds lengths of 14 inches. This species is typically found in Yemen and other parts of the Arabian Peninsula.

Uromastyx hardwicki: Coloration is highly variable but is usually dark brown to light brown or tan. Smaller than Uromastyx aegyptius, this species will only reach lengths of 14 inches or less. This species can be found in India and Pakistan.

Uromastyx ocellatus: Like Uromastyx benti this species demonstrates sexual dimorphism, with males being blue-green or green with blotches of orange and yellow. Females have more subtle yellows and browns and have less orange. As in most species of Uromastyx, this species rarely exceeds lengths of 14 inches. This species is found in Egypt and the Middle East like Uromastyx aegyptius.

Common Name: Long Tail lizard, Long Tail Grass Lizard

Latin name: Takydromas sexlineatus

Native to: Southeast Asia

Size: Six to eight inches long with ¾ of the length being the tail

Life span: If taken care of properly, long tail lizards can live five years or more.

General appearance: The overall color of the long tail lizard is brown with a possible greenish hue. There are stripes going down the long tail lizard's back that is normally brown with white and black bordering the stripes. Their tail is usually about ¾ of the length. The underside is usually creamy white. They have a triangular head.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A minimum of a 15-gallon enclosure for a single long tail lizard. It is important to have a secure fitting screen top for air exchange.

Temperature: The ambient temperature should be 75° - 85° F. The basking site should be 90° - 95° F. During the night the temperatures can fall to 65° - 70° F.

Heat/Light: Because long tail lizards are awake during the day it is important to use a full spectrum bulb. Ceramic emitters, under the tank heat mat, and incandescent bulbs can be used to achieve proper temperatures. Hot rocks are not recommended.

Substrate: Coconut fiber, peat moss, bark chips, sterilized soil and paper towels are all considered to be suitable bedding.

Environment: Long tail lizards are ground dwelling lizards and should mimic a sparse forest habitat. Plenty of hiding spots and branches to climb on should be provided. They should have about 70% humidity in their tank.

Diet: Gut loaded crickets, wax worms, mealworms, butter worms, red wigglers, and earthworms can all be fed to the long tail lizard 3 times a week.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the long tail lizard back in the enclosure. Hand washing after handling the lizard or any cage furnishings is essential.

Common Name:Emerald Swift

Latin name: Sceloporus Malachiticus

Native to: The Emerald Swift can be found in the forested regions of Central America from Mexico to Panama

Size: Emerald Swifts can reach six to eight inches in length.

Life Span: Generally three to five years or longer if properly cared for.

General appearance: Emerald Swifts are an emerald green in appearance with a stocky body. Males will often have a bluish hue to the scales and will often have a bright blue underside. Females are slightly smaller and tend to have a bit more gray in their coloration, often with brown spots. Female emerald swifts rarely have the bluish underside that the males possess.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A 30-gallon or larger aquarium with a secure screen top or other similarly sized enclosure is required to comfortably keep emerald swifts.

Temperature: As with most reptiles, a thermal gradient should be provided for the emerald swift. Daytime temperatures should be 75° F with a basking area of 95° F. Nighttime temperatures for the emerald swift can be maintained at 70° F

Heat/Light: The emerald swift requires UVA and UVB light. This can be provided by using full spectrum fluorescent tubes, fluorescent power compact bulbs, or mercury vapor bulbs. Mercury vapor bulbs also provide heat. Additional heat can be provided by using ceramic emitters, incandescent basking bulbs, or under-the-tank heaters. Timers are recommended to provide an adequate photo period. Be sure to regularly check the temperatures of the enclosure and basking spot with a thermometer. Hot rocks should never be used with any reptile or amphibian as they may cause serious burns to your animal.

Substrate: Emerald swifts like to burrow so substrates such as coconut fiber and reptile bark make excellent choices. Younger emerald swifts can be housed on indoor/outdoor carpeting or newspaper in impaction from the substrate is a concern.

Environment: Emerald swifts need 60% humidity and usually require a daily misting. Also provide plenty of branches and artificial plants to allow the swifts to climb. A hide box should also be provided as well.

Diet: Emerald swifts are primarily insectivorous. Adults should be fed three to four times per week. Juveniles should be offered food daily. A variety of insects can be offered, including crickets, meal worms, wax worms, king worms, and butter worms. Insects should be gut-loaded and if required, dusted with vitamin supplements twice a week.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the emerald swift back in the enclosure. Hand washing after handling the lizard or any cage furnishings is essential.